On the way to visiting Egypt, there were international tensions to consider, and then there was Covid, and knee surgery. We changed plans but not direction and scheduled a trip to Morocco.
There was a lot of anxiety as we prepared. This was our first overseas trip post-Covid and naturally some of the anxieties of the epidemic remained. And then, one of us had recently undergone knee-replacement surgery and was concerned about managing stairs, uneven pavement, and strange shower configurations. For the other - me - there was the terror and alarm caused after previewing online videos of open plazas where people casually carried and even wore a most-feared creature: a writhing snake.
And so we traveled to Morocco. After experiencing the land and meeting the people, my feelings for the country would best be expressed by slapping a huge heart emoji on a map of Morocco.
Our tour
Our tour was the Morocco Sahara Odyssey organized by Overseas Adventure Travel. The excursion provided an overview of the country and included: a stay in Rabat (the capital), followed by Fez, crossing the High Atlas Mountains, visiting the city of Ouarzazate where several Hollywood Blockbusters were filmed, spending two nights in a tented camp in the Sahara, experiencing marvelous Marrakesh - which was the highlight for me - and then riding to Casablanca to board our return flights after 16 days. The itinerary offered an introduction to the people and culture through up-close personal experiences and interactions.
The tour was designed to immerse us into the culture of a mostly Islamic nation so that we could learn about the religion, religious practices, and about how people express their faith in daily life. Fortunately, our tour took place at the end of Ramadan. This is the most holy time in the Islamic calendar and it includes a time of fasting, prayer, and thoughtful self-examination. Our travel dates allowed for us to be there for Eid al-Fitr, which marks the end of Ramadan. This is a time of joyous family celebration with thorough household cleaning and preparation along with toys and gifts for the children, and a family feast.
It was all a marvelous experience. We learned a lot about daily life, visited with families in their homes and tent, and best of all, experienced Marrakech.
Moroccan Memories, Part I
I was mesmerized by the ever-present geometry.
It was everywhere. It seemed that the builders, artists, decorators and designers could not resist creating beautiful designs, all from basic lines and shapes and in muted colors. Here was art without any depiction of humans, in keeping with Islamic custom to prevent idolatry. The art was geometric shapes, abstract floral designs, and calligraphy.
I loved the geometry everywhere. My mind went wild just observing how shapes intertwined to form new shapes that linked to other patterns and in beautiful colors. Those intersections that created new forms - fitting into ever expanding patterns - held my attention. At times I was so intrigued that I missed some of the guide’s commentary. Every door, every window, every wall had its own unique design. My eyes were filled with triangles that evolving into diamonds, diamonds becoming starbursts of circles, squares interlocking with dots and dashes, everywhere. As I remember it now, it may have been a meditative experience for me – the geometry was a form of meditation.
We stayed in Riads.
One of the most appealing aspects of the trip was our accommodations. In almost every city, we stayed in a Riad, a former home or palace built around a central rectangular courtyard garden usually with a fountain. Rooms and halls extend in each direction, with stairs to upper levels. This design fits Moroccan city life where the streetscape reveals nothing of residences hidden behind the plain wall. You walk along the street aside an undecorated wall until you enter an unassuming door – and suddenly you’re inside a different world. It is an unusual housing concept, mysterious, surprising, and deeply appealing.
The meals were outstanding.
Every meal was delicious, usually cooked and served in a Tajine. This is a special earthenware pot with a cone-shaped lid. The meals, essentially a stew of beef, chicken, or fish with potatoes, vegetables, and some fruit such as preserved lemons or dates – were scrumptious. Every single tagine meal was the best!
Meals were served with salads of cucumber, tomatoes, eggplant, other fresh vegetables, and bread. Once returning home, I tried to replicate the memory - I purchased a tajine at World Market and prepared a meal of chicken cooked with lemons, served with small bowls of eggplant spread, cucumber, tomatoes, and olives. It was a success although the atmosphere was not the same.
Lots of spices were used in meal preparation – many familiar to us but used differently. One flavor combination I’ve used many times since returning home is simple: thin slices of a sweet orange lightly dusted with cinnamon. This is a perfect dessert.
The best souvenirs from travel are often the practices and tastes that we bring home.